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Absolute Series LED modules for a color matching to a Pantone swatch book and small item product photography.
I am interested in the Absolute series LED modules, I just realized the modules won't fit into the aluminum channels you offer, so I'm not certain what to mount them on or use as a diffuser. Do you have any recommendations? Is the type of diffuser material likely to affect the CRI at all?
I was also wondering about the brightness - each module produces 800 lumens.
I am also thinking about getting one of your dimmers, is the panel with 2 modules likely to be too bright to use at full strength?
I was also thinking about trying the North Lux light bulbs, but wasn't sure about the socket type - I'm in the UK. I noticed the Centric Daylight bulbs have an E27 European option though, are those actually the same bulbs as the North Lux? What is the actual CRI for either of these bulbs? The item page says they have a CRI of 95+, and an R9 of 80+, but the photometric report seems to suggest both of these are much higher. Am I reading it wrong?
I was planning on getting the D65 modules as I'm used to working with natural daylight color temperatures. The Pantone color bridge I'm using says to use D50 for color matching, is the D65 fine for this? Pantone has further confused me by using M1 lighting for the color bridge guide, but M2 lighting without UV for the online color finder - do the Absolute series modules qualify as M1 lighting (the D50 version anyway)?
First of all, our ABSOLUTE SERIES LED modules sound like a great option to give you an excellent "building block" for building your own light panel. The 99 CRI is an excellent fit for many color viewing and color-critical applications.
Whether or not you will need a diffuser will depend on whether there will be any potential for glare. If, for example, you plan on shining the modules directly at the illumination subject, there should not be any issues. For more information, we would recommend our blog article here: https://www.waveformlighting.com/home-residential/aluminum-channels-for-led-strip-lights-are-they-worth-it-an-in-depth-look
If you do decide that the aluminum channels and diffusers are indeed necessary, you may want to consider our flexible LED strip version of the ABSOLUTE SERIES as they will fit inside the aluminum channels without any issues.
Each module produces 800 lumens. It's a bit difficult to provide any recommendations as to whether this is sufficient or excessive for your needs, but you may want to take a look at our lumen estimation calculator, which you can find here:
Alternatively, a useful rule of thumb is to remember that 800 lumens are approximately equal in brightness to a 60-watt incandescent bulb.
Transitioning to our household lamp form factors, the NorthLux is not available in an E27 socket variant, so we would recommend our CENTRIC DAYLIGHT versions instead. For more information on E26 vs E27, you may want to reference our article here:
The CENTRIC DAYLIGHT versions also offer an excellent 95 CRI color rendering at 5000K and 6500K, either of which should work well for you. The only minor difference (as noted by their part number including or not including the letter "D") is that the NorthLux is calibrated to D50 and D65 color standards, which may be of interest to you.
The actual color rendering values will depend on the specific bulb. Our guaranteed values are 95+ and 80+ for CRI, respectively, but depending on the specific bulb, these values may fluctuate. CRI, for example, can be anywhere between 95 and 98.
Since you'll be using the lamps for digital arts (rather than printing and visual assessments) with monitors calibrated to D65, our 6500K or D65 product options sound like the best option for you.
Is there a recommended type of material for this, or will any type of translucent plastic do? Are there any materials that look appropriate but I should actively avoid them due to them compromising the CRI too much? If I use completely transparent clear plastic just for a protective 'lid' over the module, will this affect the color temperature or CRI at all? My gut says no on this last one, but thought it was worth checking in case there's something I'm not aware of.
Unfortunately, all materials will absorb and reflect a small portion of the light energy across the spectrum in slightly different ways. We generally recommend using polycarbonate, acrylic, or glass, as these materials generally alter the spectrum to the smallest extent. Some anecdotal testing on our end indicates that polycarbonate diffusers can affect the color temperature by 200-300K. CRI is generally not affected.
I was hoping you might be able to give me some quick advice on setting up the modules - I've made a basic diagram of my plan, but I don't have much experience with this sort of thing, so I was hoping you could take a quick look and see if it makes sense.
I've reviewed the drawing you kindly provided, and everything looks good and reasonable.
Hopefully, this makes sense, if not, let me know! I will most likely put 3 modules on one panel and 2 on a separate one, but I am making the basic assumption that even if I put all 5 on the same panel using the same power supply, it should be ok, as the power supply is 24v, 60W, 2.5A, which seems to cover the minimum requirements for 5 modules, plus a bit extra - is it ok?
Yes, the power capacity appears to be perfectly fine for this installation. The only thing to be careful of would be to make sure that the wires used to connect the modules have sufficient thickness. Generally, if you're just connecting a single module, you should be fine with 20 AWG or thicker.
Is it okay to use an inline switch sold as a 12V switch, as long as the amp rating is high enough? I found some that say 2 amp max at 12VDC, and one that says suitable for 5-24V but doesn't mention amps... They're all very basic barrel jack connected on/off switches that look identical, but I've read conflicting information online about this issue, mostly regarding the possibility of arcing with higher voltage, so I thought I'd better ask even though most people say it's ok. I'm guessing the current that will go through the switch will only be the 420mA / 10W for a single module though, given how it will be set up.
There should not be any significant safety issues here, but we would recommend checking with the switch manufacturer to ensure that operation at 24 volts would be permissible. I believe that both the arc voltage, as well as current ratings, would both be of concern here.
Not too bothered about having to replace the switches if they break, but I don't want anything bad to happen to the LED modules. And I'm assuming that connecting and disconnecting the modules via just unplugging any of the connecting wires between the individual module and PSU while it's all switched on is a bad idea? This sort of thing is generally frowned upon, hence my idea about adding inline switches for each module for some brightness control... Sorry if any of these are silly questions, I'm learning this on the fly!
There should be no issues with the modules, as long as they are not suddenly flooded with voltage or current.
As for the A19 style bulbs, does the article you linked basically mean it's always unsafe to use E26 bulbs in an E27 socket, even when they are compatible with 240V AC?
That is our assessment based on the dimensions and input voltage levels.
Would it be safe to use a NorthLux E26 bulb with a B22 (bayonet socket) to an E26 adapter at 240V? (E27 to E26 doesn't seem to be a thing...) Given that the product page says it's compatible with 240V AC, I assume I wouldn't have to use a step-down transformer or anything?
Yes, the product is compatible with global input voltages and will operate with 240 volts AC despite having an E26 base.
Do you know if NorthLux bulbs (the D50 version anyway) conform to the M1 lighting standard at all?
Unfortunately, our D50 products do not conform to the MIUV metamerism requirement for UV fluorescence. As such, you will see our conformance is limited to ISO 3664:2000 and not any of the later standards.
Do the lights emit anything into the UV range at all, or are they closer to the M2 UV-excluded type lights in that respect? Doesn't help either that the bridge guide uses M1 standards and photoshop uses M2 when the paper the guides printed on is full of OBAs.
All of our products do not emit any UV (defined as < 400nm) except for our realUV products.
Except for our ABSOLUTE SERIES LED products, the LEDs are based on a royal blue 460 nm emitter with phosphor downconversion, so virtually no energy is emitted below 430 nm or so.
I saw the section about white rendering on the Absolute series product page, does this mean they can activate the OBAs in paper and textiles, at least somewhat?
You are correct that the ABSOLUTE SERIES LED products do have some potential to excite OBAs to improve white rendering. This is due to the underlying emitter being based on a violet emitter which peaks at 420 nm. You'll notice, though, that this is still well within the visible range of the spectrum and does not produce enough ultraviolet energy to provide meaningful improvements to MIUV rendering.
One thing you may want to look into is the realUV LED strip or floodlights in combination with our existing visible wavelength range products to improve UV rendering. Unfortunately, we don't have any test data or full solutions here, but this may be worth experimenting with on your end.
Question posted under:
LED power suppliesLED strip lightsLED modulesLED dimmersColor matchingD50 (printing, digitizing)